Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
